Mozambican Adventures of the Beilfuss family (Madison chapter)
26 April 2008
Durban
We were graciously and generously hosted by our friends Paul Dutton and Jane Bertram in Salt Rock, a small community about 45 minutes north of Durban, South Africa. It was cold there compared the temperatures we'd had in Chitengo and even at Kruger, so we were bundled up more than usual, even though the normal mean temps for late April and early May are warmer. But this didn't stop us from enjoying our time there!
Much of our time was taken up by errands - shopping for things we can't get in Mozambique (eyeglasses, medicines, haircuts) and an appointment for Theo's next immunizations. But we also made time to enjoy some amenities of "1st world" life (IMAX films, fully stocked grocery stores and bookstores), as well as the gorgeous natural amenities of the area. Sure, the beach was windy and cold, but it was dramatic and beautiful! But, personally, I still think the pool swimmers were crazy! (Paul presented Ian with the "HMS Ian" for more swimming fun.)
We also enjoyed a great evening of music and good company with some of Jane and Paul's friends.
One adventure felt a little "3rd world." We needed to change the oil in our car, but because it was a holiday weekend in South Africa, most of the garages who could do this for us were closed. As Paul and Jane were asking around the town for ideas about places that might be open, another customer shopping at the auto parts store where we had stopped to ask said, "oh, I'll do it." After some discuss, we actually left him the keys and the car and agreed we'd call him in an hour to come get the car. I had an uncomfortable feeling in my stomach about it, but trusted Paul's instincts, which said this guy was OK. Several hours and several cell phone calls later, we got directions to this guy's house, and, sure enough, there was our car, in the front yard of this guy's house, along with several other cars. They'd done the oil change and put in new filters, and also put in a new pump for the windshield cleaning fluid (we hadn't had fluid the whole drive south from Chitengo!). We paid our money and off we went. Sometimes these unofficial things do work afterall!
Our family has moved back to Madison (we returned mid-August 2008) for a variety of reasons. While we are very sad to have left the Chitengo family we had come to love -- and the extraordinary natural resource, Gorongosa National Park -- we are very excited to be back in our old Jean Street neighborhood in Madison, and to be able to see and communicate with our friends and family more readily.
"A Complicated War: The Harrowing of Mozambque" by William Finnegan.
"Drawn from the Plains: Life in the Wilds of Southern Africa", by Lynne Tinley, wife of the ecologist who documented the plants and animals at Gorongosa before the wars. Out of print but available through www.abebooks.com
"The Safari Companion: A Guide to Watching African Mammals" by Richard D. Estes