Trip to the Murombodzi Waterfall

We spent a great day hiking to the Murombodzi waterfall on Mount Gorongosa. We drove to Nhancuco (about 2 hours from Chitengo) and hiked for about an hour along a path through fields of corn and bananas with the capable guiding of our friends Tonga, Tongai, and Silvestre.






















It was Theo's first waterfall experience, and we're happy to report that he loved it!

Hangin' in Chitengo

Here are a smattering of photos from our time in Chitengo in April.

Gram stayed with the kids during the morning while I worked, doing various "lessons" with Ian. Tthe state of our dining room table in that first photo is evidence of their hard work! The litte house in the foreground of the photo was a house made out of cardboard and lovingly painted for our little plastic friend lizard who, alas, was lost before his house construction was completed. But it still was a great project.

Theo was a pretty good sport about the whole thing, demanding to be held a lot but still enjoying hearing stories and observing Ian and Gram's hard work (most of the time).

We had great weather - warm during the day but not so hot during the day - that allowed for daily swims in the pool and hanging out on the lounge chairs in the shade of the trees around the pool.

Post from Ian: Our Story About Tadpoles

[Transcribed by Katie as told by Ian]

We captured some tadpoles. We are trying to save the tadpoles. We are trying to raise them. When they grow up they are going to be Foam Nest Frogs. We are raising them in a dishwashing bucket that is full of water.

When we first got them, they were tiny and white and slowly they turned more black. When they are a little bigger they start growing legs and once they have full grown legs and their tail shrinks, they lose their black color and become a greyish-white color.

We got the tadpoles from a place where they would have died. The place was the Sanctuary in a pan [shallow, temporary wetland]. They would have not survived if they had emerged there because their nest was over mud there, not over water. Tadpoles must have water.

[a bit of information from Katie: foam nest frog females lay their eggs inside a white foamy nest - you can see one in the photo with Rich and Ian. She lays this foamy nest on a branch over a body of water, and when the eggs are ready, they fall out (as little tadpoles) into the water below. The foam nest that Rich and Ian found in the Sanctuary were laid over what had been a small pond but had since dried. We've had the tadpoles for almost two weeks now and they grow daily, but no sign of legs yet. Stay tuned!]

Theo Grows

Here is a post dedicated to our smallest member – the one of us whom you are most interested in seeing! He is growing leaps and bounds – was 10 pounds at his 6 week checkup, gaining ~ ½ pound a week on average. He is wearing his 3-6-month-old clothing already. Generally he is a very good baby, although we are learning he has his limits – he “goes with the flow” during busy days (like an 8-hour day in Chimoio – including drive time there and back – to go to the bank and grocery store, or an all-day trip to hike to the waterfall on Gorongosa Mountain), sleeping in the car and generally doing wonderfully. But then he lets us have it that night, howling and refusing to stay asleep until it’s time for us to go to sleep.

Mercifully he does sleep well at night (usually) once he actually gets to sleep, waking only a couple of times – without screaming – to nurse, after which he goes back to sleep. Small miracle when you live in a camp with houses close together and no glass (just screens) in the windows!

Recent developmental milestones: smiling, grabbing/gripping, and looking adoringly at caretakers. Batting at things deliberately is just around the corner, according to Rich! He loves baths (in a small plastic tub in our bathroom’s shower).


Ian continues to be a stellar older brother, showering him with obvious and genuine love, looking after his needs, and helping his mom, dad and Gram take care of little Theo.

Welcomed by Friends

It was great fun in the days following our arrival in Chitengo to greet old friends come to welcome us back. Word travelled fast, and we had many visitors to our home to meet Theo and see (in particular) Ian and me, as we'd been gone for such a long time (since mid-November '07). So many familiar faces! Theo goes by "Tay-o", as the "th" sound is missing in Portuguese and "Tee-o" means "uncle".

Below: 1) Zeca and Antonio with Theo, 2) Grant, Ian, Katie, Theo, Francisco and Vasco, 3) Katie, Theo and Ian with some other new Chitengo babies.

Joburg - Gorongosa

Our Joburg to Beira flight was uneventful but for some last-minute snafus getting our tickets finalized (nothing goes smoothly, it seems!), and Franziska was there waiting for us at the airport with a Gorongosa car. We headed for Shoprite to stock up on groceries, when we suddenly realized we’d left Theo’s passport at the airport, getting his visa! (The immigration officials take your passport to process the visa while you wait at baggage claim, and we’d left the airport forgetting about our newest member, as the rest of us had our paperwork in order.) So, I headed in to do the shopping while the rest of the crew headed back to the airport. Apparently the immigration guys were all laughing knowingly at Rich when he arrived to retrieve Theo’s passport (thankfully the office was still open on that Saturday afternoon!) – at least we hadn’t forgotten the baby himself.


We arrived at Chitengo in time to have ample light to unpack the car into the house. Almost three weeks of having being shut up tight (and an earlier 2 months uninhabited over the holidays) had left the house very mildew-y smelling. That, in addition to the suitcases yet to be unpacked, left me feeling totally overwhelmed by our return. Thank goodness Mom was there to step right in and get busy with the cleaning up – shelves all wiped out, groceries put away, suitcases organized if not yet unpacked. I felt we were well settled in by the end of 24 hours.


Theo’s carseat (his favorite sleeping place) fits just right on top of my bedside table and inside our bed’s mosquito net, so all three of us can settle in for the night in our room. Mom is sharing rooms with Ian, occupying his spare bed which sat idle for most of last year. We are a full house but everyone is amenable to it. Theo’s porta-crib – a generous gift from Seattle friends brought all the way to Africa – serves primarily as a changing table and dresser for Theo’s things, and is located in the living room. I love how we all are capable of putting up with situations that are not what we are used to nor would we necessarily choose (if given the choice) – in this case, space and privacy, primarily.


The peace and quiet of camp after the generator went out at 10pm that first night reminded me of why I love being here – the natural nighttime noises without all of the artificial human ones.

Africa-Bound

We began our long journey home to Gorongosa on St. Patrick’s Day. We traveled on an overnight flight to London, where we taxied to the home of long-time friends of Katie’s family near the airport, where we found Gram (Katie’s mom Barb)! (Barb had flown to London the previous week to be able to spend some time with friends). After a delightful lunch and rest, we headed back to the airport for overnight flight #2 en route to Johannesburg.
Theo was a trooper on both flights, doing a lot of sleeping and generally keeping pretty quiet, as far as babies are concerned! We had a baby bassinet that was a dream for Theo. I was thankful for the loud drone of the plane as it disguised Theo’s occasional cries.

We arrived Joburg at 9-ish in the morning, where we Beilfi sailed through immigration and managed to retrieve all of our bags. But no Barb! Because our seats had not been together on the plane, we had not gone through immigration together. After a long wait, I talked with some officials who said there was another international arrivals area (to which other airlines are directed) at which she could have erroneously ended up. I managed to talk my way through various security barriers to get into this other area, where I did manage to find her. (She wasn't, I should point out, the only one who went to the wrong place -- many others from our flight were there as well. Poorly signed!) She was worried that we weren’t in her section and that her baggage didn’t seem to have arrived, but nobody had bothered to tell her she was in the wrong place! Happily all of this time was less than an hour, and then we were on our way again.

We had 3 days in Johannesburg so that we could get some doctor and dental appointments in before heading back to rural Mozambique – in particular, the boys both needed immunizations. Turns out Easter holidays in South Africa are akin to Labor Day in the US – the whole country shuts down for the Friday through Monday around Easter, with even most shops closing up tight Friday at noon. So our stay wasn’t quite as productive in terms of getting errands done, but we did enjoy a relaxing afternoon at the Johannesburg Zoo.