Recent Favorite Theo Photos

Paul's Salt Rock Swamp Forest

One real treat during our stay with Paul and Jane in Salt Rock was a visit to the swamp forest behind their house which Paul helped to protect when a developer purchased and made plans to develop the land above (and including) this forest. Paul was hired as the environmental consultant for the project and was able to convince the developer that protecting the forest would not only be a good thing for the forest but would also add value to the development, as the residents of the development would be able to enjoy the natural values of the forest. Paul's work also meant that the stormwater from the development would not be directed into the swamp forest (which would have effectively killed the forest, which relies on natural springs for its survival), but instead into a separate stormwater management system

Paul developed a beautiful boardwalk through the forest that meandered around the trees (Paul proudly remarked that they'd cut no trees in the development of the boardwalk). In one part, the trees actually came together above the boardwalk to form an archway.

As we approached the forest, Paul informed us all (and Ian in particular) that this forest was a holy place and that, as a result, no running or loud noises were permitted. Paul's words had the effect they needed: Ian virtually tip-toed through the forest, quiet as a mouse.

More amazing was the effect of the forest on Theo: the second Jane and he walked into the canopy of the forest, Theo became instantly quiet, his eyes open wide and taking in all of the sights of the forest. He was entirely focused during our whole walk through the forest, happy as can be to be under such trees. This boy is another nature boy, that is for sure!

Durban

We were graciously and generously hosted by our friends Paul Dutton and Jane Bertram in Salt Rock, a small community about 45 minutes north of Durban, South Africa. It was cold there compared the temperatures we'd had in Chitengo and even at Kruger, so we were bundled up more than usual, even though the normal mean temps for late April and early May are warmer. But this didn't stop us from enjoying our time there!


Much of our time was taken up by errands - shopping for things we can't get in Mozambique (eyeglasses, medicines, haircuts) and an appointment for Theo's next immunizations. But we also made time to enjoy some amenities of "1st world" life (IMAX films, fully stocked grocery stores and bookstores), as well as the gorgeous natural amenities of the area. Sure, the beach was windy and cold, but it was dramatic and beautiful! But, personally, I still think the pool swimmers were crazy! (Paul presented Ian with the "HMS Ian" for more swimming fun.)

We also enjoyed a great evening of music and good company with some of Jane and Paul's friends.







One adventure felt a little "3rd world." We needed to change the oil in our car, but because it was a holiday weekend in South Africa, most of the garages who could do this for us were closed. As Paul and Jane were asking around the town for ideas about places that might be open, another customer shopping at the auto parts store where we had stopped to ask said, "oh, I'll do it." After some discuss, we actually left him the keys and the car and agreed we'd call him in an hour to come get the car. I had an uncomfortable feeling in my stomach about it, but trusted Paul's instincts, which said this guy was OK. Several hours and several cell phone calls later, we got directions to this guy's house, and, sure enough, there was our car, in the front yard of this guy's house, along with several other cars. They'd done the oil change and put in new filters, and also put in a new pump for the windshield cleaning fluid (we hadn't had fluid the whole drive south from Chitengo!). We paid our money and off we went. Sometimes these unofficial things do work afterall!

More Kruger photos

These were taken by Rich, whose camera's zoom is far better at capturing our wildlife sights than mine!

male impala







Baboon






Elephant







Wildebeest







Zebra

Kruger Park Wildlife

We had great wildlife viewing during our five days at Kruger. During the days that Rich attended his meeting, mom and the kids and I spent some of each day driving around the Skukuza area to look for wildlife.

One morning we drove east from Skukuza to Nkuhlu, where we stopped for some breakfast. We were warned about the mischevious monkeys by a staff member whose job seemed to be to hang around and scare the monkeys off when they got too close. Apparently the monkeys have a particular fondness for sugar packets, but the also don't appear to be too picky!

Our breakfast arrived, and Gram and Ian left the table to get more forks, leaving me feeding Theo and "guarding" our breakfast. But those monkeys worked fast! The second they saw that both the staff monkey-deterrer and my personal monkey protectors had gone, they swooped down into action. Our toast was gone before you could stay "shoo"! Thankfully, they weren't able to make off with our eggs or bacon, so we did get some breakfast. And even though I am bigger than they, these little monkeys still scared me, particularly when I was feeling vulnerable feeding Theo. We were so stunned by the event that we didn't even manage to take a photo of the monkeys! (Plus, we didn't want to encourage them, says Ian.)


A short list of our wildlife sightings: the "Big Five" (elephant, lion, leopard, rhino, and buffalo), zebra, wildebeest, giraffe, impala, kudu, warthog, bats



The photo of bats is taken at outside the cafeteria at Skukuza; they roost up in the top of the underside of the thatch roof of the little shelters where folks eat their lunches. They were a continual draw for new tourists. Needless to say, the tables and chairs under this thatched roof were at the outside edges of the thatch, not directly under the bats!



Our lion sighting was more adventure than quality viewing - on our way to Satara camp, where we spent one night, we came upon a traffic jam of cars on a bridge. Sure enough, through quick chats with folks in stopped cars we learned that under the bridge was a family of lions who had just feasted on a wildebeest kill. We could only get in close enough to confirm that lions were there: we saw a fat, sated lioness lolling on her back while her two cubs nursed. Alas the cars with the best views were in no hurry to move on (and frankly couldn't have anyway, given the number of other cars blocking their way out), so most of the occupants of those cars had settled in for sundowners.

Kruger

First, to set the scene on the homefront:

We shared one little bungalow intended to sleep three; we were five, so Ian slept in his cool sleeping bag on his Thermarest pad and Theo slept (as is his nightly norm) in his carseat. It worked out great, especially since we had been anticipating a bungalow that slept only two! We stayed 5 nights in Kruger, so got to really "settle in" to this little home.

On our porch we had a little kitchenette with fridge, 2-burner electric stove, a sink with hot and cold water, and the basic utensils, dishes, and pots for "self-catering". We did breakfast at home every day, but generally ate out our other meals as we'd had limited space for carrying food in our car on the way to Kruger. Plus that way we got to try out various yummies offered by the park.

We also used the front porch to hang our little laundry bits (during the day when everyone else was out on game drives so they didn't have to look at it) - mostly Theo's washable flannel wipes. Ian also washed his stuffed animal collection while we were here - you can see tigger, snowman, beluga, butterfly, and hippo all hanging on the line to dry. It was a fun project.

Next post will be the more interesting bits about our daily drives in the park, including a rundown of the animals we saw. A preview: we managed the Big Five!

On the Road Southward

We left Chitengo on 16 April first for Beira, where Rich attended a meeting about the Zambezi River, and then headed south on our long journey to Kruger National Park. Rich attended and presented at the annual Kruger Science Networking meeting, and we all got to come along for the experience! It is more than 1000 kilometers to Kruger from Chitengo, which we traversed in 3 days.

Our first day took us from Beira to a small resort called Morongulo about halfway to Maputo. Our 5:00 AM departure from Beira meant that we arrived Morungulo in time to enjoy time on the beach, playing in the Indian Ocean's waves.

Early the next morning we headed out to Maputo, ariving in time to enjoy ice cream and beer with friends (who used to live in Chitengo) on a terrace overlooking the sea while Ian played in the sand and on the playground with his buddies Hannah and Adi. Our colleague Raquel and her husband Rui made us a delicious dinner and put us up in their beautiful apartment that night - the city noises were strange to us after the silence of Chitengo.

The third day brought us to Kruger. The border crossing into South Africa was pleasantly uncomplicated, though crowded, and we arrived at Kruger in time to enjoy a lovely safari drive to Skukuza camp.

Three cheers to Rich for doing ALL of the driving - much of it on roads with horrible potholes (in places, it is generous to call the road a road, when in fact the asphalt that remained was more an impediment than anything.) It is hard to believe the road is Mozambique's longest national road, traversing the country from south to north. And it makes one appreciate the amenities we do have access to in Chitengo, considering all of those amenities must travel this road at one time or another!

Three cheers to Barb who road shotgun and handled all of the food and drink provisions and read out loud the entirety of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory!

And, most of all, three cheers to two little kids who really do a great job traveling.